The Resurgence of the Pie and Eel Café in London
There’s something undeniably comforting about stepping into a traditional pie and eel café in London — the patterned tiled walls, the smell of hearty food and the hum of regulars chatting over plates of mash. These cafés, often simply called pie and mash shops, are part of the capital’s culinary DNA and have recently been enjoying a bit of a renaissance. Once on the brink of disappearing entirely, they’re now attracting attention from both nostalgic locals and curious newcomers.
Pie and mash originated in the early 1800s in East London’s docklands, when industrial workers needed a quick and inexpensive meal. Early traders sold eel pies from carts, and as demand grew, small shops began to appear around the city. The first recorded pie and mash shop — Henry Blanchard’s “Eel Pie House” on Union Street in Southwark — opened in 1844. Over the late 19th and early 20th centuries, names like M. Manze and F. Cooke helped expand the trade, with Manze’s opening in 1902 and eventually growing to fourteen sites across London at its peak. (Wikipedia)
At their height in the mid-20th century, London boasted well over 100 pie and mash shops catering to dockers, labourers and families alike. But by the 1990s that number had dwindled to fewer than 90, and today there are roughly 30 or so traditional shops left scattered across the East End, south-east London and even into neighbouring counties such as Essex. (London Museum)
Decor: Tiles, Counters and Tradition
One of the most striking things about a pie and mash shop is its decor — and there’s a reason it looks the way it does. Traditionally, these cafés are lined with white, green or cream glazed tiles on the walls with embedded mirrors and simple friezes, a look that dates back to the late Victorian and Edwardian era when tiled interiors were a sign of cleanliness and respectability. The floors were originally wood covered in sawdust to collect eel bones; today they’re mostly tiled for easy cleaning.
Inside, you’ll often find marble-topped tables, wooden benches and long counters running along one side where customers order and collect their food. The effect is both historic and welcoming — uncrowded cafés feel like stepping back in time, with vintage photographs on the walls and seating laid out to encourage conversation and community.
What’s on the Menu?
What you’ll find in a pie and eel café is simple, unpretentious food with deep roots in working-class London. A traditional plate consists of a hand-made minced beef pie — light on fancy fillings, rich in flavour — served with creamy mashed potato and a pool of parsley “liquor” (a sauce made from parsley and cooking juices). Many cafés still offer jellied eels — chunks of eel in a cool jelly — a dish that was once as ubiquitous in the Thames as the pubs themselves.
The beauty of this menu is its simplicity: hearty, filling and affordable. These cafés aren’t trying to dazzle with molecular gastronomy; they’re all about tradition and taste, serving food that has sustained Londoners for generations.
Who Eats There?
Pie and eel cafés historically served the working classes — dockworkers, tradespeople, local families looking for a cheap and filling meal. Today, the demographic is more mixed. You’ll still see older regulars who’ve been coming for decades, plates of pie and mash delivered to office workers on lunch breaks, and increasingly younger folk drawn in by heritage, Instagram posts and foodie curiosity. It’s not unusual to see queues forming at weekends as people come to sample a slice of London’s history.
Tourists looking for an authentic British experience are also discovering these spots, and foodie writers have helped put them back on the map. In some cases, even upscale eateries are reinventing versions of the classic dish, though purists might turn up their noses. (The Guardian)
Why the Resurgence?
A mix of factors is contributing to the renewed interest. The cost-of-living squeeze has many people craving good value, comforting food, and pie and mash fits that bill perfectly. At the same time, social media has sparked nostalgia for “authentic” experiences that pre-date global fast-food chains. There’s also a growing cultural push to recognise traditional British foods as part of the nation’s heritage — even discussions about protected status for pie and mash have made headlines. (The Week)
In the face of rising rents and competition from trendy chains, these cafés are proving resilient. People are rediscovering what made them beloved in the first place: warming food, a sense of community and a taste of history.
Supporting Tradition
If you want to support these classic eateries, there are plenty of ways to help. Visit regularly, bring friends, share your experiences online and choose heritage over homogenised chains when you can. Every meal served is a vote for keeping a piece of London’s cultural fabric alive.
Summary
London’s pie and eel cafés have surged back into public interest after decades of decline. Originating in the 19th century as cheap sustenance for dockworkers, these shops now number only around 30 but are drawing new crowds with their traditional menus and cultural appeal. Supporting them helps preserve an iconic part of city life.
